The wife and I were surprised by the good material quality, good directions, and relative ease to install this shed. It took us about three 4-5 hour days in 95-100 degree temps to assemble, not counting the time and material to construct a level base and to obtain, cut, and install the 3/4' plywood base. Our Jack-of-All Trades yard man leveled the ground next to our house and using a mixture of all-purpose sand and gravel laid a perfectly level pad from 1.5" thick concrete pavers.
We had a couple of minor missteps where we had parts upside down or backward. Having two people checking on each other's work and understanding of the instructions every step of the way can be very helpful to avoid assembling too much and then finding out you have to dismantle a bunch of stuff to correct a mistake. Of course, this only works if you have a sense of humor and don't kill each other, which is tempting at times. We've had 46 years of marriage practice at DIY projects so that helped but there is always some yelling and swearing involved.
I would offer one heads-up about the plywood floor. The dimensions given in the instructions are perfect if you use regular plywood, but I tripped up when I bought tongue and groove plywood at Home Depot and had them cut the 3 sheets of 4' X 8' to size per the instructions. Unbeknownst to me, the tongue projection is included in the 48" dimension of 4' X 8' plywood. Doing that resulted in an approximate 2" gap in the floor because the tongue is included in the 48" width dimension and that results in a floor surface that is only 47" wide per board and that shortage gets multiplied with every board you lay down. The upside is tongue and groove gives you a solid floor that will not separate at the seams when walking on it. The downside is you end up with a tongue and not a complete floor at one side of your shed plus the fact that tongue and groove seams no longer span the metal sub-floor frame at the seams as it was designed to do with regular plywood. We had to cut a 2" wide by 61" long strip from the scrap plywood to bridge the gap plus put a section of scrap plywood under the floor in between the metal sub-floor rails to prevent the floor from getting pressed down at the gap area because the seams were no longer resting on the sub-floor rails. Long story short, I suggest avoiding tongue and groove plywood unless you are willing to take the time and trouble to make it work.
Now we have to build two wooden shelf units, one for each side of the shed using our scrap plywood plus about fifteen 2' X 4' X 8's to build the frames.